- #Yamaha fz09 ecu quickshift how to#
- #Yamaha fz09 ecu quickshift serial#
- #Yamaha fz09 ecu quickshift drivers#
If you get the Rx and Tx around the wrong way you wont hurt it, it just wont work so swap them and try again. You can't really damage anything other than the cable if you get it wrong and as long as you don't connect anything to the 12v pin any other combination wont hurt it, it just wont work. There is one pin on the YEC loom connector that has 12v on it the wire is red don't connect anything to it it will most likely fry your cable Next is the important bit Putting the terminals in the right spots! The connector kits they sell are great for those of you like me that like to use the right connectors instead to chopping the loom up to fit quickshift sensors etc (These are all near the bottom of the page linked for the connector)
090 Sealed Series - Connector and Terminalsģx Female terminals to suit the connector (get more than you need just in case you make a mistake) 090 seires connector Link: Motorcycle MT. There's loads of other options out there but as long as its for 5v logic (most 3.3v cables have a 5v vcc wire for power supply so make sure it specifically says 5v logic or 5v IO)ġx 4 pin Female Sumitomo MT. Or If you want pretty lights but not as pit garage friendly without an enclosure and requires some de-soldering and soldering: I'm just lucky it didn't fry the usb ports on my laptop. But read my experience above with poor manufacturing it got so hot i couldn't touch it. I have ordered the cable in the link so will update steps and pics when it gets hereġx 5v TTL to USB Cable Link: - There are much cheaper options but these are guaranteed to have genuine chips meaning no driver problems if your good with computers getting the fake ones to work is easy.
#Yamaha fz09 ecu quickshift drivers#
I could try like 10 different cables to find the right one and still be cheaper(Actually tried 2 first was a $10NZD ($7US) cable with a manufacturing defect two pins were bridged with a bad solder job and killed itself hows that for luck! second was a $7NZD ($5US) one that said 5v but turns out it was a 3.3v cable with a 5v supply line also took some messing around with drivers due to the chip being fake). But i figured if they can do it I can and for twenty odd bucks who cares as long as it doesn't fry my ecu (I work with electronics for my job so I was pretty sure it wouldn't) its worth a shot. I wasn't sure if the Yamaha Fi matching software had any code that stopped it from talking to a non genuine cable that the others selling them had cracked.
#Yamaha fz09 ecu quickshift serial#
Once I learned that the ecu communicates via common 5v TTL serial protocol the rest was pretty simple.
#Yamaha fz09 ecu quickshift how to#
Or the even more ridiculous price Graves and all others on ebay want for their "Much Cheaper" version, which as it turns out is just what i'm about to show you how to make.
So after refusing to pay the ridiculous price for a genuine YEC interface cable. Now later on I decided i wanted to adjust some of the settings. Like alot of people with the YEC ecu I borrowed an interface cable to have it dyno tuned when i first set it up. Might work with 2CR and 2KS the cable has a new part number but it is now listed for the R6 as well if anyone gives it a go please let me know. I've Copied this over from my original post on R6 forum since it applies to the R1 and figured you folks here can benefit from it as well and thought i should join here since i have an R1 as well as R6.ĢC0 06-07 (untested but uses the same part number cable)ġ4b 09-15 (untested but uses same part number cable)
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